Aix-les-Bains

Studying the development of Aix-les-Bains in contemporary times provides a revealing overview of the history of spa towns in France from the 19th century to the present day. Beyond its exceptional resort town planning and the evolution of various leisure and entertainment facilities, it also highlights the challenges and the varied array of stakeholders. However, this Savoyard town has a number of unique features: located at a crossroads between several areas, it was both a lakeside resort and a health resort.

The period of the founding fathers (1824-1870)

Although the virtues of the waters of Aix-les-Bains had been known since Roman times, it was not until 1783 that a thermal spa was built there. Therefore, it was only in the early 19th century that the reputation of this Savoyard resort began to take shape, in particular as a result of visits by members of the Bonaparte family and the communication of research by medical professionals.

Realising the importance of entertaining visitors – a term that includes those taking the waters and seasonal tourists – local dignitaries established a social club in 1824 which served as a venue for balls, concerts, lectures, and games. Between 1847 and 1848, plans for a new entertainment venue were revealed: the Grand Cercle casino, designed to meet the new needs of the time. However, all too soon, Savoyard capital was found to be lacking. At this critical juncture, Jean-Louis-Victor Bias, a Parisian casino operator who had arrived from Germany, where gambling had just been abolished, stepped in. He became the leaseholder of the new club, undertaking to complete the works without delay.

Ill 1. The casino of Aix-les-Bains, western façade overlooking gardens,
in Amédée Achard, Une saison à Aix-les-Bains, 1850, p. 105.

The casino, inaugurated on 1 July 1849, was celebrated as a paragon of luxury and comfort. Aix became “a caravanserai where Europe comes to change air” and play roulette and Trente et-Quarante. With gambling largely banned in Europe (since 1 January 1838 in France), Aix-les-Bains – at the time part of the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia – was in a unique and privileged position, competing directly with renowned spa towns on the other side of the Rhine, such as Baden and Homburg. However, Sardinian legislation banning gambling resulted in a fluctuating environment of tolerance and prohibition between 1850 to 1856, causing great tension in the town.

“We cannot ignore that gambling is one of the most powerful attractions for many people who, through luck, seek to break the monotony of a burdensome existence […]. Almost everywhere, for the majority of foreigners, water serves as a pretext, while gambling is the true objective.”

Dissertation on public gambling by Aix-les-Bains social club, 1850.

Recognising the close relationship between the thermal spa and the casino, the government of Turin entrusted Bias with the management of the baths in Aix in 1853 to ensure that he would carry out the improvement and extension work, with the overarching goal of establishing the facility as the leading establishment in Europe, in line with the ambitions of Cavour, the Sardinian Prime Minister.

Ill. 2. The Etablissement Royal des Bains d’Aix-les-Bains, in Amédée Achard, Une saison à Aix-les-Bains, 1850, p.160.

A true craftsman of Aix’s growth, Bias also initiated the construction of the first high-end hotel in Aix-les-Bains, the Hôtel Royal de Savoie, which was completed in 1857.

Ill. 3. The Hôtel Royal in the foreground and the casino on the right in the background.       Lithography by Aubrun, Paris, imprimerie Frick frères, about 1860.

The Bias period (1849-1856) marked the beginning of a great era of modernisation, driven by investments from Parisian capital. In some areas of the town, macadam replaced cobblestones, pavements were asphalted, a canal was built for sewage and waste, and gas-powered street lamps appeared. In 1853, an electrical telegraph was installed at the casino, connecting Aix to Turin, Geneva, Paris, London, and Berlin, making the Savoyard town the only thermal resort in Europe equipped with such technology.

Ill. 4. The central square in Aix-les-Bains, 1852. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains, 15Fi1262.

This accelerated modernisation was supported by Cavour, who wished to compete with major French spa resorts such as Vichy and the Pyrenean resorts, as well as their German counterparts, all within the context of rising nationalism. However, the remarkable work of Bias and his close ties with the authorities gave rise to intense local opposition, forcing the Sardinian government to put an end to its tolerance of gambling and consequently an end to Bias’s contracts. In spring 1856, Aix-les-Bains had reverted to being a “palace of pain”: a national society attempted to complete the renovation works on the spa facilities, but the casino, now devoid of gambling, and once again managed by local dignitaries, was accused of being a “disgraceful temple of boredom”.

The era of builders (1870-1900)

After reverting to French control following annexation in 1860, and becoming more accessible thanks to the development of rail, the Savoyard town, derisively referred to as “Ex-les-Bains” by its critics, experienced a huge surge in the number of visitors, especially after the conflict of 1870 and the boycott of spa resorts on the other side of the Rhine driven by patriotism:

Number of overseas visitors to Aix-les-Bains during the season (15 April-31 October)

Among the crowd of anonymous visitors, some illustrious figures came to enjoy a leisurely retreat in Aix-les-Bains at the end of the 19th century, including some political leaders: Hassan I, Emperor of Morocco (1883); Queen Victoria (1885, 1887, 1890); the Maharaja of Baroda (1887); Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil (1888); Maria Pia, Queen of Portugal (1888); Carlos Pellegrini, President of Argentina (1889); Leopold II, King of Belgium (1895); Empress Elisabeth of Austria (1895); Queen Isabella of Spain (1895); King George I of Greece (between 1889 and 1912); as well as leading figures from the worlds of literature, science, journalism, finance, and business: various members of the Rothschild family on several occasions; the photographer Nadar (1883); Alfred Nobel (1885); the composer Camille Saint-Saëns (between 1886 and 1912); the poet Paul Verlaine (1889); the American banker John Pierpont Morgan, owner of the Titanic (between 1889 and 1912); the billionaire Cornelius Vanderbilt (1890); the explorer Henry Morton Stanley (1890); the author Guy de Maupassant (1890-1891); Mark Twain (1891); the painter Carolus-Duran (between 1893 and 1911); the author Séverine (1893); Henri Rochefort (who passed away at his villa in Aix in 1913); and the automotive pioneer Louis Mors (1895-1896), to mention but a few.

The growing popularity of “the queen of spa towns” led to increased construction in the centre, accompanied by urban sprawl towards the surrounding hills, raising concerns about the rising cost of land.

Ill. 5. Plan of the town of Aix-les-Bains, 1866. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains, 15Fi1213.

Ill. 6. Plan of the town of Aix-les-Bains, 1899. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains, 15Fi1046.

In 1892, there were 50 hotels and 75 villas in Aix, but it was still difficult to find accommodation during the summer months. The 1880s and 1890s saw the appearance of high-end and luxury hotels offering all modern comforts, including electric lighting, hydraulic lifts, telephones, private bathrooms and an omnibus service. The hotel owners, a new type of local notable, established their position in the city’s economic and political landscape, sometimes leading to the establishment of hotel dynasties (Rossignoli and Bernascon). Just like on the French Riviera, Aix also boasted a number of foreign hotel owners and managers, particularly Swiss nationals such as Martin-Rufenacht, Leder, and Pignat. Since tourism was seasonal, some hotel operators chose to relocate to southern resorts in the winter — for instance, the Garcin and Richard families in Cannes and then Juan-les-Pins, Rolandais in Nice, and Gruffat in Monaco.

Ill. 7. Le Splendide Hôtel opened in 1884, property of Gaudens Rossignoli. Archives Château Brachet, s.d.

Contrary to the image conveyed of winter lethargy, the “jewel of the Alps” underwent a transformation despite the cold and snow. Companies worked tirelessly to ensure that building works were completed before the end of spring, with some worksites remaining open at night.

In addition to accommodation, Aix-les-Bains had to adapt its leisure facilities to keep pace with trends and compete with rival resorts. For instance, in 1882, a pigeon shooting range was created under the impetus of Adolphe Blondin, the Director of the Monaco shooting range. He also directed the racecourse in Aix-les-Bains, which was established in the Marlioz plain in 1884.

Ill. 8. Aix-les-Bains racecourse, s.d. Department of Savoie, Departmental archives [3ETP2, photo library].

Between 1895 and 1898, a golf course was established in the Forest of Corsuet, but its distance from the town centre was an obstacle to its success. During the same period, another Anglo-Saxon sport became popular in Aix: lawn tennis. Initially played in the thermal park, it was also played on courts built by some of the luxury hotels before a dedicated facility was built near the racecourse in 1909.

Ill. 9. Tennis courts at the Splendide-Hôtel in Aix-les-Bains, s.d. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains, 11Fi558.

One great asset of Aix-les-Bains was Lake Bourget, which for many years served as a navigable route for trade and passenger transport between France and Piedmont, In the 1880s and 1890s, it was transformed into an “enormous topaz mirroring a radiant blue sky” and various companies started to operate boats on its waters, ferrying visitors to the Abbey of Hautecombe, and a range of water sports was organised there. Its shores became a popular spot for leisurely strolls and contemplation, easily accessible from the town centre thanks to a carriage service before the construction of the tramway in 1897.

Ill. 10. Lake Bourget from the main port in Aix-les-Bains, 1892. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains, 11Fi417.

While Aix-les-Bains, with its vibrant atmosphere, extensive range of entertainment, and large number of visitors, was reminiscent of a small-scale version of Paris”, its picturesque setting in the heart of the Alps transformed it into a genuine “summer Eden”, far removed from the sweltering heat of the boulevards.

“Nature seems to have taken it upon itself to make Aix-les-Bains the most enchanting corner of France. There are splendid promenades, shade everywhere, a perpetually blue sky, breathtaking views, and, finally, the impressive Lake Bourget. Subsequently, the resort has become the meeting place for the elegant elite, eager to come here to escape the tiredness of the winter months”.

Gil Blas, 10e année, n°3139 of Friday 22 June 1888, p.2.

After the morning treatment (which sometimes started as early as 2 am depending on the time of year), the afternoon was devoted to leisurely outings in carriages or on donkeys to the surrounding sites: the Sierroz Gorges, Chambotte, Mont Revard, Mont du Chat, and even further afield to Grande Chartreuse and Mont Blanc, a trip which took eight hours in 1888.

Ill. 11. Sedan char on the way down from La Chambotte, ca. 1900. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains, 1Fi71_010.

In the late 19th century, the summits of “Switzerland of the poor” increasingly attracted excursionists. It became essential to improve access, especially for those undergoing health treatments. As a result, in 1892, a cogwheel railway was installed between Aix and Revard, enhancing the thermal resort with a health resort located at an altitude of over 1,500 meters and equipped with two chalet-hotels, initially by César Ritz.

Ill. 12. Hotels-restaurants of Mont Revard, s.d. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains, 11Fi2029.

Inspired by the burgeoning success of therapeutic air treatments, a group of residents from Aix, including public works entrepreneur Léon Grosse, established the Corbières health resort halfway between Aix-les-Bains and Revard. Despite attracting notable visitors, such as the Queens of the Netherlands in 1896, the company was liquidated in 1912, mainly as a result of the remoteness of the site and its lack of profitability at a time when capitalism was on the rise.

The age of speculators (1879-1914)

1879 marked a new chapter for Aix-les-Bains with the establishment of a second casino, the Villa des Fleurs. Although geographically close, the two casinos attracted different crowds:

“The Grand Cercle served as a serious pastime for those taking the waters, a place where families gathered; the Villa des Fleurs, on the other hand, embodied the Parisian area devoted to pleasure, lit with diamonds and beautiful women, vibrant and lively like the Champs-Élysées on a wonderful June evening. Inevitably, these rival siblings coexisted, competing fiercely with one another in a costly and relentless battle. […] The simple fence separating them is higher than the Eiffel Tower.”

Gil Blas, 14e année, No.4636 of Thursday 28 July 1892, p.1.

This new casino brought Aix-les-Bains into a world of capitalism marred by dishonourable behaviour and scandals, which even threatened the stability of the Third Republic.  The casino operators, or “casinocrats”, wielded great influence over policing, the judiciary, politics, and the media. The casino managers or gambling leaseholders in Aix were active in other spa towns, often forming formidable green baize trusts on a national and even European level. One example was Charles Bertrand, a former coachman for the Rothschild family who became the mayor of Cabourg. By 1901, this “generalissimo of the baccarat table” was the proprietor of gambling houses in Aix-les-Bains, Cabourg, Nice, Vichy, Biarritz, and many Parisian clubs, in particular in partnership with the Belgian businessman Georges Marquet, known as the “Napoleon of gambling”.

Ill 13. The Villa des Fleurs casino, ca. 1905. Archives Château Brachet. Portrait of Charles Bertrand.

The rivalry which lasted several decades culminated in a merger in 1910, following secret talks and dubious manoeuvres: the Grand Cercle’s operating company was rebranded the “Société des casinos d’Aix-les-Bains”, managed by unscrupulous casino magnates.

In the same way as these gambling trusts, real estate companies were formed, speculating on land. One such entity was the “Société immobilière des villes d’eaux”, founded in 1881 by four Parisian investors. The hotel sector also saw the creation of consortiums, with businessmen replacing traditional hoteliers. For instance, the “Société immobilière et d’exploitation des Grands Hôtels de l’Europe et Bristol” established in 1900 by Louis Tessier, was predominantly managed by a group of Nice-based investors: the architect Joseph Mars, the banker Roissard de Bellet, the trader Victor Debenedetti, and Charles Choisnet, director of the Annuaire Didot-Bottin – the last two were also involved in the management of the Villa des Fleurs casino. As the 20th century approached, there was a clear trend towards investing in promising sectors and adopting financial placement strategies.

The dominance of capital was further illustrated by the hotelier Louis Rossignoli, who in 1910 managed the “Société des Hôtels Splendide-Royal et Excelsior”, listed on the stock exchange. The list of its board members, mainly Parisians and Swiss investors, reflected this strong business ethos In addition to this company, Rossignoli was appointed to head the “Compagnie hôtelière de Marseille et de la Riviera” and became a board member of the Carlton Hotel in Saint-Moritz, as well as the one in Lyon and the Majestic in Chamonix, expanding his operations well beyond Aix-les-Bains.

Under his relentless leadership, Revard sought to compete with Chamonix and shifted its focus to winter sports in 1909. The years leading up to World War I were marked by talks with various capital firms from England, Egypt and the United States, regarding the acquisition of the Revard railway and hotels-restaurants.

The popularisation of thermalism and the birth of the “Riviera des Alpes” (1914-2020)

World War I brought this exceptional growth to a standstill: the casinos were closed during the summer of 1914 and the thermal activity ground to a halt. Aix-les-Bains was about to be turned into a vast military hospital.

Ill. 14. Wounded soldiers in the foyer of the Villa des Fleurs. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains 11Fi1096.

In the inter-war period, a certain degree of social glamour endured, with many distinguished guests still in attendance, even as Europe’s elite gradually modified their recreational and entertainment habits. With the resorts of the Côte d’Azur developing summer tourism, competition intensified for the Savoie resort, prompting it to diversify its offerings by establishing La Savoisienne electrical construction plant.

Throughout the 1930s, a proactive policy was implemented to counter the effects of the economic crisis: the city became a never-ending construction site under the leadership of the architect Roger Pétriaux, responsible for the creation of a new thermal spa and the municipal beach, a symbol of a more youthful and sporty tourism.

Ill.15. Thermes Pétriaux, after 1932. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains 12Fi22_578.

After World War II, the introduction of reimbursements for healthcare by Social Security in 1947 brought about a radical change in the town’s visitors and landscape: health tourists replaced the social elite, luxury shops gradually disappeared, and the upmarket hotels and luxury hotels from the Belle Époque were turned into condominiums between 1950 and 1965. During the same years, the shores of Lake Bourget underwent extensive urban development, as the town sought to bring it closer to the town centre and diversify its bathing areas.

Ill.16. Aerial view of the shores of the lake, 1967. Coll. Archives Aix-les-Bains 1T17.

Although Aix-les-Bains became the leading spa town in France in the 1980s, attracting nearly 60,000 visitors for therapeutic treatments, the town has experienced a steady decline in visitor numbers since the start of the 21st century in the context of a much wider crisis in traditional spa tourism. Since 2000, a new thermal facility owned by the Valvital group has been built on the hills overlooking the town. This centre specialises in rheumatology and phlebology, offering short treatment programmes and preventive care, as well as a relaxation area.

Ill.17. Les Thermes Chevalley thermal spa, s.d. © BOLDINI-AIXRIVIERA.

The original thermal establishment, located in the town centre, purchased from the State by the municipality, is currently being restructured to house a media library and an Architectural and Heritage Interpretation Centre (CIAP). On the strength of its many assets, Aix-les-Bains is committed to reconciling “natural beauty” (the greenway along Lake Bourget, cruises, fishing, paddle biking, the Sierroz Gorges, etc.), “well-being” (spas, paddle yoga, massages on electric boats, etc.), heritage and culture (the Villa art collection, Abbey of Hautecombe, guided tours of the casino, and remarkable luxury hotels and villas, etc.), and “the art of living” (Musilac festival, horse racing at Marlioz racecourse, etc.).

“Once upon a time, there was a town by a lake that offered a quality of life without equal. Here, there is no stress or traffic jams. We take time for a shopping spree, a break on a terrace, an engaging exhibition, or simply to appreciate the architectural gems that are laid out before our eyes”.

Website aix-les-bains-rivieradesalpes.com, September 2023.

Ill.18.The Epine massif, Lake Bourget and the town of Aix-les-Bains, 2014. Inventaire général du patrimoine culturel © Eric Dessert.

Nathalie ARPIN

Sources

  • Aix-les-Bains municipal archives
  • Savoie Departmental Archives
  • National Archives – Pierrefite and Paris sites
  • Archives nationales du Monde du Travail
  • Archives of the Paris Police Headquarters
  • National Library of France
  • Lectura+ and Retronews (digitised press)
  • Turin State Archives
  • Geneva State Archives
  • Château Brachet private archives
  • Léon Grosse private archives

Bibliography

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